This traditional patchwork art—applique has a long history in Odisha. The art form is typically dependent on four basic colours i.e., red, white, black and yellow to produce a striking effect. In recent years, green colour and embroidery work has been applied vigorously enlivening the craft even more. Cutting of cloths to sizes, stitching of cloths with different colours as per design and sketch is the main process of this craft. The work involved is mostly of hand. The appliqué work of Pipili. Butapalli, Khallikote, Tushra and Chikiti is known for its bold character and vitality. The artisans deftly stitch traditional motifs such as elephants, peacocks and flowers on umbrellas, canopies and fans on cloth background to form harmonious and colourful patterns with embroidery work. In fact, the basic inspiration for this art form is mainly religious in nature. The umbrellas and canopies for lord Jagannath, lord Balabhadra, goddess Subhadra and other deities carry some of the finest examples of appliqué work of Orissa.
With progressive modernization and market demand, appliqué products and their pattern has undergone tremendous changes. Appliqué work, today, reflects these modern trends and is a flourishing industry.